Silk/rayon brocade. Brocade is a fabric with raised designs, sometimes with metal threads added (as here). It is woven on a Jacquard loom, generally with long "floats" (where a thread will disappear behind the back for a long stretch in order to create the pattern.) The ground may be satin (as here) or twill, or a combination of the two; the motifs may be figural, floral or abstract.
